New Brunswick, The Acadian Coast and Miramichi, July 13, 2008

6 09 2008

A New Brunswick Snack

A New Brunswick Snack

Even at the time we knew we weren’t giving New Brunswick a fair shake. Before we got there I had jokingly referred to New Brunswick as the overlooked province, and Step had admitted he had been unable to rustle up any interest in it. We knew the Bay of Fundy and Digby Peninsula might be spectacular, but we wouldn’t be anywhere near them.

The first stop when we got off the bridge connecting the uninspiring province to Quebec was the information centre in Campbellton. To me, the most interesting brochure was a flyer advertising you could go to these peoples’ house and have an Acadian evening with them, including a lobster dinner and music in their living room. We couldn’t go because of course you needed an advance reservation, but it’s kind of quirky you can pay them to host you for an evening. (The flyer showed everone being served plates with 2 lobsters each, which seems kind of excessive. I can barely make it through 1). We went to a nearby pub for lunch where we were served a terrible basket of previously frozen shrimp with what tasted like seasoning salt on them, a real disappointment after the uber-fresh and tasty seafood of the Gaspesie.

Acadian Telephone Pole

Acadian Telephone Pole

Our plan was to go to Moncton lickety-split and have the awning repaired at an RV centre. It was already early evening so we knew we wouldn’t get there until the next day. Step wanted to take the direct route down the freeway, but I lobbied to mosey around the Acadian Coast. There was really no reason not to, so we did. I suppose if the sun had been shining the coast might have looked beautiful, but it wasn’t. There were a lot of things painted with the Acadian flag, including the telephone poles. The houses were less colourful and more run-down than those on the Gaspesie. It looked like the people were kind of struggling. We stopped for propane and I noticed the convenience store had wieners in brine or water for 50 cents as a snack option.

We did stop at one place I thought was beautiful; a little beach near Grande Anse called Pokeshaw Community Park, but as it wasn’t beach weather we didn’t stay long.

A Lovely Spot on a Gray Day

Pokeshaw Community Park: A Lovely Spot on a Grey Day

In the absence of any local connections for input, we often turn to the Lonely Planet travel guide for advice on where to go. Even though the Canada edition we have is 3 years old the majority of times it steers us in the right direction. Step had read about a campsite near Miramichi called The Enclosure which had a pub called Flo’s in it where there was live music, so we went there. Sadly, Flo’s wasn’t open that night, so we had to scratch together a dinner from odds and ends in the Boogie Bus and listen to the iPod. We had purchased firewood from the front gate which was so damp we just couldn’t keep it going, even though I tried and tried to make a fire. The bathrooms at the Enclosure were the worst I had seen—old, buggy, and not very clean. I guess the one nice thing was the campsite itself was beautiful, being forested with copious tall and densely foliaged trees. And we got our laundry done.

The next day during our drive to Moncton there was a rainfall that was one of those ones with really big raindrops, if you know what I mean. When we got to the RV place it was really crowded and the many staff people were harried. One of them explained it was the busy season, came out and glanced at our awning, still packed in it’s casing, and instantly proclaimed it would take 5 weeks to get the parts needed (WTF?). By this time Step and I had examined and discussed the awning so much we decided we could do the job ourselves, and purchased some awning tape and sealant and went on our way. (To get quite ahead of myself, and to not keep you in suspense, over the next 10 or so days we did a very good repair job ourselves, indeed the awning is more secure and waterproof than it started out as, and we use it often but always take care to secure it to the ground).

Step at The Enclosure

Step at The Enclosure

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