British Columbia, The Crowsnest Highway, August 30-31, 2008

22 02 2012

A Desert in Canada

A Self-Sufficient Mountain Lodge

You can drive from Nelson to Vancouver in one day if you put your mind to it, but we are pokey so we budgeted two days. We tried to visit some friends of Linda’s in Slocan, which is a significant detour, but when we finally got to their remote mountain compound, no one was home. They have a large yard in front of their forest house where they have a music festival every summer, and generate their own electricity with a water wheel in their creek. We had to backtrack down to the highway. The road was not a busy one, but it still had an organic coffee wagon on its side, so we stopped for some espressos. Back on the Crowsnest Highway (otherwise known as Highway 3) we picked up a hitchhiker who stayed with us until Grand Forks.

The Kootenays are Arid

Especially in August, the East Kootenays are really arid. A lot of Ukrainians settled in the area, and that combined with the dry grass gives the area a prairiesque feel. Or maybe that’s just me; for some reason I associate Ukrainians with wheat products like perogies and bread.
We really weren’t in a hurry, so we decided to set up camp early for us, and stopped at Boundary Provincial Park near Greenwood. It’s a smallish campsite that really has not much to recommend it other than it’s a decent place to stop overnight on your way to somewhere else. I took my Edible Berries of the Northwest book, which I had purchased at the Junction of Alaska Highway, to see if I could identify any of the surrounding berry bushes (no) and took a walk around the small campsite. There I saw a most amazing camping setup! Some people had a perfectly refurbished old Ford truck, and a perfectly refurbished Boler camper trailer, both painted in shiny canary yellow. I asked them if I could take a picture so I could share it with you. That’s road trip living!

Such Style!

Electric Boogie Bus Nights

Night fell and we were cooking away when suddenly the marine battery that powers the amenities in the back of the Boogie Bus failed. Against Step’s advice, I tried powering with the power pack. Electrical fire! Fortunately with a quick disconnect the fire wasn’t able to gain any traction and we didn’t have to use our little extinguisher; it fizzled out on its own leaving just the acrid scent of electrical damage. We were perturbed and confused by this, as we had just put in a new battery at Portage la Prairie, and had not had any trouble the whole time we were on the road. I suppose if this must happen, the last night of your trip is a good time. (A few weeks later we took the Bus to the camper van hospital, where they were able to determine the cause as some faulty wiring, which of course we had fixed and have not had similar troubles since.) We were still able to stay up as we had the LED lights directly powered by the power pack, as well as lantern and firelight.
The next morning, as a special last-morning-on-the-road treat, I fried bacon and the frozen toutons we had purchased in Labrador City. MMMMmmmmm, breakfast that can kill you.

Downtown Osoyoos

The Kootenays are quite hilly and you are on a high mountain side before you enter the Okanagan region at Lake Osoyoos, so you get an incredible view of this northern dessert. Even though Osoyoos is kind of redneck, I really like the hot, dry air of the place, as well as the shallow warm lake, and traveling through was a good reminder I would like to spend more time in the area. I have fond memories of visiting there with my family in my youth. There are a lot of vineyards and orchards, and it’s a true dessert so it has cactus and rattlesnakes. Most people do not associate Canada with such things, but I assure you they are there.

These Peaches Are Fucking Delicious

The fruits of the Okanagan are famous, and you will never find a sweeter, riper, juicier peach than you can there. All along the highway you come across fruitstands and U-picks. We went to an organic fruit stand in Keremeos, but the fruit didn’t look amazing and there wasn’t much there, so we backtracked a bit to Parsons Fruit Stand. Parsons isn’t certified but they grow everything organically. I bought a large box of peaches, some cherries, pears, plums, peppers and garlics, and we all had some of their sweet and buttery corn on the cob which we ate at pleasant orchard side tables.

Parson’s is Nice!

Then we had to drive through the Princeton area which is my least favourite part of the Crowsnest, because it has a lot of really steep inclines and difficult switchbacks, and somehow the trees are boring instead of majestic. We stopped at a particularly depressing rest area and ate smoked trout inside the bus, and in Princeton itself there was a bit of driving around looking for propane (we saw lots of tanks, but none was for sale to us) until we found the Husky on the edge of town. By the time you are there, it’s just a hop, skip and a jump to Manning Park.

Manning Park Is Damp

Manning Park has the makings of a very nice drive through, unless it is damp and you are only hours away from the end of a summer trip that you wish wouldn’t. Also, we could really see vividly the devastating effects the Mountain Pine Beetle had had on BC forests, with the dead, red pines peppering the mountainsides. Linda, the most eco-conscious of the 3 of us, made the cup half-full comment that after all the pines are dead, the beetles will perhaps die off and the pines could grow back. (Personally, that can’t happen soon enough for me. I need White Pine needles to make medications if the apocalypse comes, but that is another blog altogether).
After Manning Park you get to Hope, where the Crowsnest Highway merges with Highway 1, and that is so in the neighbourhood of where we live I started to get really depressed. Then Harrison Hot Springs. I was driving and I kept driving slower and slower because I didn’t want the Cross Canada Boogie Bus Adventure of 2008 to ever end! It was dark when we got to Chilliwack, but since I grew up there, I know my way around quite well and I took the long way ’round to the propane fill-up. Even though it was past 10pm, I was grateful for the heavy traffic on Highway 1, as we got closer and closer to Vancouver, but the inevitable would happen (hence the descriptor “inevitable”) and we were inside city limits, and we spent one last night in the Boogie Bus on the street in front of Linda’s before finally moving out of the van and back into our loft in the hipster hub of Mount Pleasant. I’d say there’s no place like home, but despite how far we had traveled, when you have a funky machine-for-living-on-wheels like the Boogie Bus it’s like you’re just taking your home for a jaunt around your backyard.

Home Again


British Columbia, Fort Saint John and Dawson Creek, June 3, 2008

25 06 2008

Mile Zero of the Alaska Highway

Perhaps our brief visit to Fort Saint John would have gone better if we had bathed in the 5 days prior. True, we had gone into the hotsprings so we weren’t smelly, but the water made my hair stringy and I was covered in little sores and scabs from the copious mosquito bites I had sustained in the north. This is the only explanation I can come up with for why the 5 or 6 pharmacists eyed me suspiciously from afar as I waited at length at their Shopper’s Drug Mart counter to ask for a bottle of Florastor (which, to their credit, they had. Previous attempts to procure this product outside of Vancouver had only resulted in retail confusion). When I tried to put my recycling in the bins at PriceSmart the stockboy confronted me and tried to throw my recycling in the garbage! (One really great thing we found out is Fort Saint John recycles thoroughly and often—there’s Eco Depots everywhere).

 Because Fort Saint John was our first opportunity for technology in quite a few days, and because I wanted to thrift shop in small towns (where all the best finds are found) we ended up being there for a lot more hours than we had planned. There were phone calls and emails to be answered, and the thrift store yielded up a radical magnetic spice rack that Step said he had considered ordering for online more than once, as well as 2 jumpsuits, a dress, and a board game called Cartel which was only missing a few pieces and we have, at the time of this writing, yet to test drive.

Honey Place is Closed

R.I.P. Ernie Fuhr

Although Fort Saint John has by far the snazziest pamphlet on the Tourist Info Booth wall, we didn’t find much else of interest to us. The one attraction we had both been looking forward to was The Honey Place, home of the world’s largest glass beehive, which is right on the ourskirts of the town. But when we got there it was closed.  Ernie Furh, The Beeman, had died! This was a sad and disappointing moment. Butterflies and Honeybees, sufferin’ succotash, this is not my trip for visiting insects.

 Dawson Creek, also Mile 0 of the Alaska Highway, was our next map marker, and as we approached we go our first prairie lightning, and our first rain for the trip, and we stopped at Safeway for wireless (not operational yet), and then we were in the prairies.

British Columbia, Rocky Mountains Via the Alaska Highway, , June 2, 2008

25 06 2008

Unintimidated Wild Life

Step on a Scree

Now we had to drive through the Rocky Mountains. We enjoyed the lakes and massive screes. We had spotted quite a variety of wildlife in our travels already, and now came the mountain sheep. They were entertaining for their complete nonchalance to traffic. If one was licking something on the road (which they often do) they just won’t move until they’re finished. This delights travelers and aggravates truckers. Personally, I found driving the Boogie Bus along the narrow, twisty roads of the Rockies challenging and I don’t know how people navigate trucks or those giant mo-hoes over them. I was glad no sheep jumped in front of the bus.

Don't Let This Be You

Because of that I was relieved when we got to the foothills and some long straight roads. Our target was Fort Saint John, but just to stock up on needed items and perhaps get a bit of WiFi time (finally). Even though we made good time and drove late we got too tuckered out to make it all the way there, and ended up spending the night at the last rest stop before the town.

This turned out to be a very popular rest stop. When we got there there was already a truck, two mo-hoes and a couple of cars. Step went to sleep and I watched a movie until maybe 2. I went to the bathroom and was delighted to find a warm, well-lit bathroom with flush toilets and sinks with hot water. This was a welcome change to the outhouses we had become accustomed to on the northern roads. No wonder the rest stop was so popular! Walking back I noticed a Boler had joined us and now a classic Airstream was pulling in.

It was a good thing we really took full advantage of the full service rest stop, because it was the last one we would get on this leg of the journey.

A Common Sight on the Alaska Highway

British Columbia, The Alaska Highway and Liard River Hotsprings, June 1, 2008

18 06 2008

People Enjoy Liard Hotsprings

Watson Lake

The Sign Post Forest of Watson Lake

We had to backtrack a bit on the Alaska Highway, which was okay because then we knew where the propane was and I could get some of those butter tarts. At Telsin we picked up a hitchhiker named Andrew who was a native guy with a good sense of humour and a lot of stories. He had driven his daughter’s car for her from Watson Lake to Whitehorse (441Km!) and was hitching back to Lower Post where he lived. He was planning to buy us lunch as a surprise but we usually make our own food and invite any riders so instead he decided to buy us all the butter tarts at Rancheria, but alas, when we arrived there were only two left. I must say that one I ate was fucking good! And we took the generous thought for the deed, and the favour of the ride was well repaid in entertaining stories. We dropped him off right at his house in Lower Post around 5 feeling anecdotally richer for the experience.

Watson Lake

Wildlife sighting

Wild Buffalo of the Yukon

Our ambition was to get to Liard River Hotsprings and camp for the night. It turns out it takes Step and me forever to get anywhere, with frequent wildlife and scenic photo-op stops, lunch-making and coffee-quests, and we rolled into the hotsprings 5 minutes before they closed the gates for the night. The ranger assured us several times the hotsprings were open all night, even though we hadn’t indicated any concerns about it. The campgrounds were full but he told us we could stay in the parking lot, which was fine with us. The Boogie Bus is remarkably self-sufficient and we could get by for a few days without even a hookup.

These Springs are Hawt!

The first thing we did was walk along the boardwalk to check out the hotsprings and they are incredibly beautiful; lush with an exotic tropical feel with is quite an astounding feat for a nature site near the 60th parallel. There are 2 pools, the Really-Hot Alpha Pool and the Not-Quite-as-Hot-but-Deeper Beta Pool. There is also a composting toilet and a hanging garden, which we didn’t check out that evening. Even though it was after 10 it was still broad daylight and there were quite a few people enjoying the springs.

Mosquito suit

Mosquito Over Kill

We went back to the Boogie Bus and made dinner out of some dried pasta and bottled sauce. We usually do the dishes outside in bins and it was now Mosquito Hour. To get to the hotsprings you have to walk for a good stretch along boardwalks over marshland and the parking lot is right by this marsh, and the ranger had said the mosquitoes were really bad for this time of year. After being half eaten alive at Boya Lake I  had mosquito concerns. I put on a pair of long pants Step had, and tucked them into some socks. Then I put on The MuuMuu (because it seemed like the appropriate garb for the magically tropical hotsprings), and over that I put the mosquito top Lee Andra gave me, then some rubber gloves I always wear when doing dishes. After all this preventative outfitting, the mosquito turn-out was pretty pathetic, I have to say. It just goes to show, terms like “really bad” are completely relative. Boya Lake was our mosquito boot camp and Liard Hotsprings was our leave.

Made for a Human, but Mooses Like it, Too!

Liard Hotsprings

Nutritional Forests

It was after midnight when we made our way back to Beta pool for a dip. Because we were still far north it was still sort of light out but I guess all the other campers were tired from a day of hot soaks because they had all gone to bed. As we walked down the marsh boardwalk we had a surprise wildlife moment. A moose upwind of us was walking on the boardwalk in search of that nutrient dense marsh grass. We were pretty close by the time we realized each other was there. Everyone worries about bears being dangerous, but Step and I know a moose will actually trample you if it feels threatened, and here we had “snuck up” on this one. We stood still looking at the moose and the moose looked at us. People have a tendency to anthropromorphasise animals, but I swear we could see that moose trying to make up it’s mind if he should fight us or not. Finally we continued slowly down the boardwalk, still looking at the moose, and it relaxed when it saw we were moving away. I guess if we had any sense we would have felt scared but actually it was all midnight magical.

Liard Hotsprings

Can't Get Enough Pictures of These Amazing Hotsprings

Seeing as we had the springs to ourselves of course we skinny dipped. The alpha pool is more exotic but I liked the Beta pool because it’s deeper and not as hot and I could float to where the underwater springs fizzed and bubbled on my back. The alpha pool has different temperature sections so it makes a great spa experience.

 The next day I took the camera to get some pictures of the hotsprings but the access to the Beta pool and hanging gardens was closed off. Later while breakfasting at the lodge across the highway, I overheard a park worker say that the whole section of boardwalk had collapsed when they drove the ranging golf cart over it, but the golf cart was going so fast it didn’t fall with it. I dunno…it felt pretty sturdy when we walked on it. I think structures in the northern part of the country take a lot of wear and tear just because of the extreme weather, or maybe the parks don’t get enough money. They fixed it pretty fast, though. We have to go back some day and see those hanging gardens, since I never did get to see them.

Scene Seen from the Alaska Highway

Yukon, Whitehorse, May 26-May 30, 2008

9 06 2008

MIles Canyon in Spring

At the junction we added a hitch hiker named Brian to our Boogie Bus. Brian was headed for Alaska to do some prospecting and hopefully make a bit of money for his girlfriend in Charlotte, North Carolina (My brother lives in North Carolina!). He rode with us all the way to Whitehorse.

The road was definitely an easier drive, although there were a few slow spots with road crews. For graffiti, people write their names and other things in rocks on the side of the highway, instead of using paint. I don’t know if that’s because they have more respect for their territory or if it’s just because there’s nothing to paint on to, but I think that’s nice. Propane wasn’t so easy to come by because there’s just one guy who delivers north of Telsin and he can charge whatever he wants and he does. We stopped at a place called Rancheria which had a kind of antique tank and 3 guys and a dozen tries later we had our propane. They have an old rickety picnic table by the lake we ate lunch at. They also have WiFi and the best butter tarts I ever had. I didn’t find this out on the way there, but rather on the way back. On the way there I was eying the butter tarts and had just decided to have one when a trucker in front of me bought them all! This is a common occurrence at Rancheria and sometimes people phone and order them in advance. Rancheria also has resident mooses who visit daily (at “moose o’clock”) but we were too early in the year for that.

Terre Sauvage, by A.Y. Jackson, 1913

As we had driven north I noticed the trees becoming more dense, thin and spindly. I had always thought that those paintings by Emily Carr and the Group of 7 where the trees are tall and skinny and swirly at the top were stylized, but now I found out that the forests really look like that! Having visited the north I now have a renewed interest in these paintings. They are an accurate representation of Northern Canada.

Another thing I noticed was the further north we got the more often we would see boarded up businesses and decrepit buildings, as well as old rusty vehicles. Level floors in bathrooms, when we were lucky enough to get a flush one and not an outhouse, became just a concept. The cost of having something hauled is so expensive and there’s so much space I guess when vehicles stop running it’s easier just to leave them somewhere off the road for the rest of eternity, to become forever part of the landscape, or at least until they completely rust away. The closed businesses were more mysterious. Everywhere we went there was a labour shortage with ‘Help Wanted’ signs and jobs to be had for the asking, and the people of the north love the north, so how come these jobs can’t be filled? Step thinks it’s because people get better paying jobs. In the north, people are one of the biggest commodities.

Nicole and Dean behind their house

Nicole and Dean Behind Their House

By evening we had dropped Brian off on the Alaska Highway and made our way to Dean and Nicole’s house. A lot of the houses in Whitehorse are in pockets of residences outside of town. Dean and Nicole had bought one of the duplexes on the edge of town that had been built during the second world war for army residences. Once not long ago someone had reason to phone the factory where they were made and the factory was shocked to find out people still live in them. Their house is made of steel! Behind it is a forest of poplar and spruce and a big pond with frogs. Nicole said Whitehorse has a lot of foliage but only 5 different varieties. I think that was a bit of an exaggeration; I counted at least 8.  Apparently there is a large variety of wild berries, only one of which is poisonous. (We were served a lot of “wild cranberries” which were actually lingon berries and very delicious). The evening we arrived we went for a walk in the woods (since night never really falls) and Nicole recited from memory “The Cremation of Sam McGee”, the macabre Robert Service poem about a man who falls in a circumstance where he has to drag a frozen corpse around the north with him.

Midnight in the Forest and It's Still Light!

Main Street, Whitehorse

White Horse is Funky

After seeing all the dinky little footholds marked as towns on the map I wasn’t expecting much of Whitehorse, so I was surprised to find out it’s quite large (relatively speaking). The population of the Yukon is about 30,000 and over 2/3 of those people live in Whitehorse. Not only is it largish but it’s quite funky, too. The edge of the town has the usual big box crap you find anywhere like Super Store and Wal-Mart (and a lot of RVs park there. What the….? There are several beautiful wooded full service RV parks right in town. People are parking their $200,000 RVs at WalMart instead of forking over the $15 to be in the wilderness, and some of them are dumping their waste on the side of the road because WalMart doesn’t have dump stations….drrrr), but the downtown area is really charming with lots of art galleries and a couple of theatres and various cafes and restaurants. Nothing in the town is over 3 stories high and there’s a lot of mixed commercial/residential action going on, so right in town there will be a street of houses where half have people living in them and the other half are record stores and bike shops and the like.

Part of the reason for Whitehorse’s surprising funk factor is there are a disproportionate number of artists living there. It really has a thriving creative community. A lot of the people who live in the north understand that art makes home good, so they buy original local stuff for their houses. Even the Ricki’s where we went for a desperation all day breakfast had original art! I don’t know what came first, the artists or the community that supports them, but less remote communities could do well by taking a cue from this, in my opinion. Anyway, we saw a lot of artwork while we were there and most of it was Yukoncentrique, all about the landscape and lifestyle of the north. Step made the observation that maybe when you live in a place with long harsh winters and crazy hot short summers you become a lot more conscious of the land and your place on it.

Nicole in Her Backyard

Nicole in her Backyard

Nicole, the friend’s we were staying at (visit her site—expect beauty!), is an accomplished and well respected artist around those parts (and others) who once painted a series of landscapes that all showed the highway. She said because that’s what people see when they go around the north, and after being in the area for a week or so I have to agree. Unless you knew the area really well or had a guide you’d be a little crazy to go off into the woods. The go on forever and ever and they’re full of bears and treacherous landscapes. There aren’t any clearcuts like you see in the south because the trees are spindly and expensive to ship, so the only reason people would cut down trees is for farm or to mine what’s underneath. The “tagline” for the Yukon is “larger than life” and it’s true they have a LOT of space. Even the aisles of the supermarkets are superwide and no one seems concerned about making efficient use of shelf space. People move around a lot and are familiar with all the surrounding communities, even though they are 100s of kilometers apart.

Roads of the North

Like their art, the Yukon people we met were very northcentrique, super proud of the place they live and what’s going on there and not as interested in the rest of the world. It’ a kind of navel gazing born out of almost obsessive love for their home and lifestyles. Like a lot of smaller communities, young people born to it are anxious to leave and everyone else showed up one day, fell in love, and never left. The first day we were there we popped by an internet café and ran into Jim, my ex-bosses brother (it doesn’t matter how far you go, you always know someone there. It’s one degree of separation), who shared the never-leaving story, and he and many others seemed to have some kind of not-so-hidden conviction that the same thing might happen to us, and maybe it could have, if we weren’t so intent on getting to Newfoundland. We spent 3 full days in Whitehorse and didn’t manage to do all we wanted. We only left because while 15 weeks seems like a leisurely amount of time to see Canada we had been gone 2 weeks and were still barely out of our backyard.

Meshell with Her Embroidered Portrait of Jim Morrison

While in Whitehorse we called on Meshell, a friend of Lee Andra and Bruces’ and an amazing artist whose medium is textiles. We had admired an appliqué landscape in Bruce and Lee Andra’s dining area which prompted them to give us her phone number. It was instant friendship! Meshell lives in a jumbled up house full of art and has one of those laughing spirits you can’t help being attracted to. To quote Step, she’s rockin’. You know she’s kind of crazy because she is currently working on making a portrait out of embroidery of every person living in the Yukon. She’s finished about 3000 so far so she’s 10% done. We also went with her to open stage night at the Gold Pan Blues Bar.

Crazy Carpet at the Gold Pan Blues Bar

On Sandor\'s deck

On Sandor's Deck

I also took the opportunity to visit my old work and party mate Sandor, who owns and operates Sandor’s the clothing store across from the Wal-Mart. Because he is of Hungarian descent the “S” of his name is soft, pronounced “Sh”—Shan-door—a circumstance he always took pains to explain when I hung out with him in the 90’s, so I had to laugh when I heard him answer the phone “Sand-ors!”. I guess after years of explaining he got tired of it and the hard S won through attrition. Sandor is married to Dionne, who works for Indian and Northern Affairs, and they have two darling children, Sadie and Kyuss. Sandor took us to his house for lunch, which was in a freshly minted subdivision so new their house had no driveway or yards yet, just dry dusty expanses of dirt that turn into mud if it rains. The inside of the house was really nice and Sandor is making a “Man Room” with an entertainment centre and a pool table in it. He’s living the good life. He served us BBQ hamburgers, fries, corn and beans. Sandor is one of those really energetic guys with lots of good stories, like how he crashed a motorcycle in Thailand and how he partied all night while waiting in line for tickets to the White Stripes Whitehorse concert and got the last 7 (there was a magic number of tickets: 420). We had a great time at lunch and I promised to give him a heads up next time we got north so we could go camping.

Dean at Philippe\'s bike repair

Dean at Philippe's Bike Repair

We visited Dean at Philippe’s Bike Repair where he works and it turned out Philippe LeBlond is another crazy Yukon artist who makes intricate kinetic sculptures out of old motors and bikes. In the yard of his shop, which is in a house, there is a stainless steel trailer and a bus, and as we watched a short documentary about him on our laptops in that yard, we learned he had a dream to make the steel trailer into a skylit gallery and pull it across the country in the bus which would be his home and traveling workshop. Right now he’s doing his bike repair thing, though. The Yukon has one seat in parliament and he also ran, but Larry won. (Larry is a popular guy in those parts).

Philippe at his shop

Dean told us Whitehorse had the best corner grocery in the world. I haven’t been to every other grocery in the world, but Dean may be right about Riverside Groceries, Open 20 Hours. Housed in a split level triangular building right downtown on 2nd and Main, it has surprising “other” areas, focuses on organic and green products, and has some odd shelf allocations. For example, there’s quite a large cake decorating section which dominates one whole shelf and two of the many walls. If you want to decorate a cake in the Yukon Riverside Groceries, Open 20 Hours, is for you! It also has that totally full, jumbled together presentation I enjoy (those that know me well know how much I enjoy clutter). We purchased a pumice stone and some assorted organic products to stock the van, and found the service very friendly.

Shopping at Riverside Groceries, Open 20 Hours

Another one of the many highlights of our visit was going to opening night of “Varietease”, a burlesque show put on in the local 60 seat black box theatre by the local actors. While the level of stagecraft and performance was quite high and the show extremely amusing, and the performers involved all very attractive, it wasn’t that titillating. That didn’t stop anyone from enjoying it, or the Twinkies served before and the sushi after. I always expect burlesque to be more humourous than sexy anyway.

Step at Yukon Brewing Company

If you have a Beer-o-phile for a boyfriend, you also have to visit Yukon Brewing Company, who make ‘Beer Worth Freezing For’ and take their free tour and generous tasting session. Yukon Brewery was started by a couple of guys who decided to ignore the feasibility study that said the north couldn’t support a brewery and went on to make award winning beers and have a successful brewery with a keener staff of 9. One beer that garnered many awards was “Arctic Red”. Imagine their surprise when they went to register the name to find Molson had already trademarked it! Molson generously offered the use of the name until some unspecified time when they would take it back, but for some reason Yukon Brewing Company decided not to put the time, money and work into making a reputation for the beer for Molson to capitalise on at a later date and instead simply changed the name to “Yukon Red”, changed the packaging and sales of the beer soared. Yes, these guys have a horseshoe up their beer bottle, as well as a sincere love for fine beer.

It’s true, Whitehorse has a lot to offer. After 3 days we reluctantly decided we had better move on since we still had most of the country to see. But first, we had to go south back to BC because so many people told us we HAD to go to Atlin, so we had to. Atlin is two hours down a pretty good dirt road from Jake’s Crossing. Atlin is a place of stunning beauty. The 400 year-round residents are loving and proud of Atlin. The 1000s of visitors that come every summer for the hunting, boating, hiking and glacier gazing also love Atlin and return year after year.

Seen on the Way to Atlin